Cuenca

We have been in Cuenca for two days now. I love the city. It is very quaint and colonial. You can almost hear the horses of colonial times trotting down the narrow streets of the city. We visited an art museum, a huge cathedral and plaza, as well as a local market. Today we traveled to the ruins of Ingapirca. The Canare were the first people in the area and eventually were conquered by the Incas. I was amazed at their building techniques, stone cut and fitted together perfectly. They site was also built to be aligned with the solstice and equinox, or four seasons of the year. In the town of Biblea, we took the bus high into the Andes to visit a church of the virgen of the morning dew. The area is an agricultural region. Long ago they needed water. A man found an image of the virgen in the mountains. He shared that with the village and from that time they received the morning dew.
The church commemorating the event is built into the mountain. We are staying at the Hotel Carvallo which is a renovated colonial home, complete with courtyards within.

The Amazon

I just returned from a one week stay at the Yachana Lodge in the Amazon. We flew from Quito to Coca, a quick 1 hour flight. From Coca we took a boat (motorized canoe for 20) 3 hours up the Napo River to the Lodge. The Lodge was in a beautiful setting on the river. Views of the mountains, rainforest, sunrise, sunset, river rise (a full meter one day). Everyday was a new adventure. We hiked the rainforest discovering rivers, snakes, beautiful flowers, birds, and more plants than I can describe. Our expert guide, Juan, was the highlight of the entire stay. He knew the names and histories of all the plants and animals. We went bird watching one morning and saw several hoatzin, a prehistoric bird. I held a red vine snake and an earth snake.
We visited a local market where the indigenous people buy and sell vegetables, fruits, cacao, corn, tools, etc. This is quite a social event as everyone goes to the market on Saturday. Yachana Lodge is part of the Yachana Technical School. We were able to visit the school, situated in the mountains, talk to the teachers and some of the students. A number of the student work at the lodge as part of their education. We were lucky to be able to attend the graduation of the first class from the school.
For all the gourmet food lovers out there, we attended cooking classes. I helped with making tilapia wrapped in leaves and cooked over a fire. We also were treated to eating live or fried grubs or weevils. They are found in the heart of palm plant and the fried grubs were quite tasty. The grubs are 2-3 inches in size.
On one of our hikes into the jungle, Juan made a basket from palm leaves. Later we made baskets of our own at the lodge. With a little more practice, I might be good at it.

One of my favorite activities was tubing down the Napo River. It was cold and refreshing on a very hot and sunny day in the Amazon. The current was very fast and we just drifted along until we reached the lodge.

More Adventures!

Sadly, we had to leave our families in Ecuador. Our final night we had a small fiesta with a great meal, special cake, and an exchange of gifts. Maura, Menardo, Paula, Johana, and the kids are definitely my second family. I hope to return and stay with them.

We loaded the bus and headed to many more places. . . .

One day the group took the bus to Ibarra then transferred to a train to travel into the mountains. We road on top of the single car train. As we passed through the city passengers yelled "duck" and we bent down to miss the overhead wires. As we entered the mountain regions we would duck for tree branches and as we traveled through at least a dozen tunnels. The scenery was breathtaking.

We arrived at the Golondrinas Ecological Reserve after a challenging ride us the mountains on dirt and mud roads. We were stuck several times, but the expert drivers got us to the top. We were in the rainforest/cloudforest at the top of another mountain. We visited two very small schools, one room, limited supplies. Saw a dead Fer de Lance snake on the playground. Then we continued our hike up the mountain on a very small and steep path following a river. Finally we reached the waterfalls and went swimming. The magical part of the waterfall is once you bath in it, you must return to Ecuador before you die. Another travel opportunity!

Another day we visited the El Angel watershed and paramo. Our bus trip up the mountain ended with a crunch. As we traveled through potholes the radiator hit a rock. We made it to the top in a pick up truck and another smaller bus. Of course, we were all wondering how were we getting back. The park guides took us on a hike to the two lakes at the top of the watershed. We met the first women to become a park ranger and heard her story. The path was stone covered. The rest of the paramo was covered in grass and frailejones, a unique plant found only in this region. The area is like a gigantic sponge holding all the water for the region. It is like walking on a mattress. The final challenge of the walk was the final climb to the highest peak, about 13,000 feet up. We made it! It was cold and wet in the area. We were in the clouds, so no view of the area that day. In the end, another bus was sent to pick us up, and we made to our next stop, Valle de Chota and the Hosteria de Palmira.

In Valle de Chota we visited the village of Mascarilla, home to AfroEcuadorians.
These people were descendants of slaves brought over by the Spanish to work. Even today they depend on the agriculture. Approximately ten years ago the papaya crop was wiped out by disease and the group needed to find an alternative source of income. Now they are farmers and artists making masks of clay and jewelry.

When we arrived in Valle de Chota the children were at the local summer camp. We took time to teach them songs and games. They taught us their songs and games too.
The middle schoolers easily beat the teachers at soccer. Some of the best Ecuadorian soccer players are AfroEcuadorian.

The group had a relaxing afternoon and evening at the Hosteria de Palmira. We went swimming, did laundry, read books, played cards and had a wonderful meal of Sea Bass. In the evening, we watched the full moon appear over the Andes Mountains.

In the morning we returned to Quito. On the way we stopped at Atuntaqui for ice cream and returned to Otavalo for some final shopping. We arrived in Quito for lunch and an afternoon exploring the city. This is also our time to RE pack for our trip to the Amazon. We are allowed one back pack for our week stay at the Yachana Lodge on the Napo River. Don´t know if we will have phone or internet access, maybe by satellite. Can´t wait to get there. We fly from Quito to the city of Coca. From there we take a three hour ride in a boat to the lodge. Wow, what an adventure.

Otavalo home stay

We arrived in Otavalo, a beautiful city, in the Andes Mountains. Wendy, Mary Ellen and I are staying with the Ruiz family for 10 days. Every morning we attend Spànish classes. In my class our teacher is Veronica. Andy and I are the students. We have had homework the past two days. Writing essays in Spànish. We are required to speak only Spanish in class. And the last two days we went walking through El Mercado de Ponchos (a huge market place) to learn more words. Today I learned to bargain (regratar) for a better price when shopping. In the afternoons we travel to places close to Otavalo. We went to the Cascadas de Peguche (waterfalls in the Andes) and did some mountain climbing. We stopped often because the altitude makes it hard to breath. Today we visited a local clinic that practices indigenous medicine along with western medicine. I was treated by a shaman. The cuy, guinea pig, told her I was healthy. More details about that when I return.

Our family is wonderful. We have three traditional meals a day with the entire family. Chicken, beef, fish, rice, fruit, and and more ways to prepare corn than I had ever imagined. The family includes parents, grandparents, children, aunts and uncles. They come and go all day long. We spend our evenings learning and playing games with the kids.

I am writing this from an internet cafe. They are all over and very busy. Most people do not have internet access at home. I make my phone calls from cabinas de telefono, or phone booths. Calling the USA is extremely inexpensive from las cabinas. We have been to museums and listened to indigenous music. Right along side the cars on the streets the indigenous people walk their cows, pigs, and sheep.
Our family just purchased one dozen chickens to raise and eat. The most interesting meal I´ve eaten so far has been goat.

The traditional dress here varies from typical western clothing to traditional indigenous clothing: ponchos, sombreros, pantalones, vestidos, zapatas, etc. All clothing is very colorful and from alpaca, llama, sheep or woven.

It has been sunny and cool here. They say you can experience all 4 seasons in one day in Otavalo. It´s true. Today was sunny and warm in the morning, cool and raining in the afternoon, and COLD with no cloud cover in the evening. We are traveling to Mojanda tomorrow. It is at a higher altitude than Otavalo, so we have been told to ¨dress warm.

Arrival in Quito

Left home at 1:00 and arrived at Detroit Airport at 4:30 am. Checked our bags all the way to Quito and started the check in process and waiting. Flight left at 7:20 and we arrived in Miami at 11:00. Long lay over and our flight was delayed. Ate great Cuban food and finally departed at 4:30. Arrived in Quito around 7:30 that evening. Beautiful city in a valley of the Andes Mountains. Staying in the San Sebastion Hotel. Today we toured Quito. Went to a number of incredible cathedrals built during colonial times. Visited several museums. Adjusting to everything in Spanish. I understand a lot of what is said, can speak some, but it comes slowly.
The food here is delicious. Fruit and juices are incredible. I had the best orange juice ever. I tried taxo and araza´ fruit drinks. ¡Deliciousa! Rode a tram to over 12,000 feet in the Andes. What a view. Tomorrow we go to Otavalo and our home stays during language immersion school.

Taking Off

Getting ready to leave tonight.  We leave at 2:30 am for Detroit.  I will ride with Judy, another teacher, to Detroit to meet the Fulbright Group and fly to Miami.  Everyone is excited and nervous.  Currently, the temperature in Quito is 66 degrees for a high and 48 degrees for a low in the Andes.  When we travel to the Amazon the temperature could be in the 70s but the humidity at 94%.  What a change.  I will be staying with a family in Otavalo while attending language school.  That will be the first week in Ecuador.  My family has a baby and a 6 year old girl.  We will walk to school each day from their home.  Well, I'm off to finish packing.

Ready to travel

Only a couple more days until departure. I've had all the shots: hepatitis A and B, typhoid, and tetanus are up to date, and I have malaria medicine with me. The yellow fever vaccine was my only "new" shot. The challenge has been to pack for a month of travel in one carry-on and a back pack. While we are in the Amazon for a week I will only be able to use a backpack. I have been practicing my Spanish daily. I hear and understand much more than I can speak. Hopefully, language emersion school in Otavalo will change that. I will be communicating with family, friends, and students via email and this blog. We will be looking for internet cafes. I won't be taking a computer or a cell phone.